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Durham Radio Sales and Service Canada :: Amateur Radio :: TNCs and Modems :: SLHEAD Signalink Programming Head for SL1+ Units

SLHEAD Signalink Programming Head for SL1+ Units 

SLHead Tigertronics Programming Header

The Programming Header (Part# SLHEAD) provides a neat and convenient alternative to using jumper wires to program the SignaLink mic connections. It provides a “module” that is quick and easy to exchange when moving the SignaLink between radios. Although it probably seems obvious how to use the header, the following tips will provide you with some good ideas and keep you from making some common mistakes.

1) Never solder on the header unless it is plugged into a socket for support. The plastic can melt and cause the pins to become loose or misaligned. Avoid soldering on the header when it is installed in the SignaLink.

2) Wire your SignaLink with jumper wires first to verify that you are making the right connections. It may save you from having to do some difficult rework on the header later!

3) Notice that the header and cap both have the Pin #1 corner marked by a beveled edge. Be sure that you wire the header such that the beveled corner corresponds to Pin #1 on the circuit board.

4) Use the smallest insulated wire that you have for wiring the header. We use “wire-wrap” wire (#30 kynar). It works exceptionally well.

5) Unless your wire is very small, do not wrap or pass it through the forks on the pins. Although this looks like the obvious thing to do, it is generally impossible to trim the wire close enough to the pin after soldering to allow the cover to install correctly. It is sometimes better to solder the wires to the inside face of the pins. Another approach is to bend the forks inward a little before soldering to get more cap clearance.

6) If you solder the wires properly, the cap will be a “snap fit” onto the header and be very secure. If you are having trouble getting the cap on, you probably have wire or solder interfering with it. You might have to file the offending connection a little or remove the wire and try soldering it again.

7) We have found it very handy to label the finished header with a small piece of label stock identifying the radio it is wired for (see picture). It’s also nice to put a dot of paint or fingernail polish to indicate the Pin #1 end of the header.

Price: $14.95


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